Restaurants with wood-burning ovens are a growing public health concern. Situated in or near business districts, shopping centers and residential neighborhoods, they emit wood smoke pollution in areas where people walk, shop, work and live. This creates real access barriers to public places for people with certain medical conditions, but it’s not healthy for anyone.
Commercial wood-burning ovens are designed to burn 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Restaurant owners sometimes leave them smoldering overnight so that the stone will remain hot, which, insurance companies warn, is also a .
Some restaurants add expensive equipment to filter their emissions, such as a New York whose proprietors spent hundreds of thousands of dollars in an attempt to mitigate their wood smoke emissions problem. In that case, the neighbors continued to complain about the smoke and, in spite of the expensive mitigation efforts, the restaurant eventually closed.
Smoke from a wood and charcoal-burning restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts, negatively impacted the quality of life and health of neighboring residents. The over $100,000 on equipment to reduce smoke emissions, but the filtration system didn’t work as expected, and the problem continued. The city’s Commissioner of Public Health eventually the restaurant to stop burning wood and , finding that the restaurant’s emissions “caused a condition of nuisance which is injurious to the public health.”
Cigarette smoking has been banned inside restaurants in order to protect employees and customers from secondhand smoke. Yet few seem to question smoke inside wood-burning establishments, which poses similar . An earlier of the Cambridge restaurant noted its “focal point is the hearth at back, food charring on grates, logs ablaze. (The chef poking at them, eyes red and tearing, suffers so your food may be infused with smoke. Someone get him some eye protection … )”
An of pizzerias with wood-burning ovens found that fine particle concentrations inside restaurants “can be very high, especially when compared to other critical microenvironments” including urban freeways.
Indoor ventilation and filtration systems have to be ineffective in eliminating the health risks posed by secondhand cigarette smoke. The only effective method of eliminating this health hazard is to prohibit smoking. There is no reason to believe that the situation is substantially different with smoke produced by burning wood or other solid fuels.
Another Italian found that airborne levels of the carcinogen were highest in outlying areas where wood is burned, rather than in more urban areas. The exception was in urban Milan, where elevated benzo(a)pyrene levels were associated with the presence of wood-fired pizzerias.
in São Paulo, Brazil, found that an average wood-burning pizzeria burns 48 metric tons of wood each year. In total, 7.5 hectares of eucalyptus forest are burned there annually by pizzerias and other wood-burning restaurants. Not only is this harmful for forests, but burning that much wood also adds significantly to air pollution levels. The study’s authors point out that the health effects from pizzeria and barbecue emissions are higher than those from industrial sources, in part because pizzerias and barbecues have chimneys much closer to ground level and release pollutants all year long in populated areas.
, wood-burning pizza restaurants, bagel bakeries and grilled chicken restaurants that burn wood and charcoal are estimated to emit 60 metric tons of fine particle pollution each year, creating significant health risks for the neighbors of these establishments. (See our information about the of a pollutant.)
For those eating the food, there is evidence that they are harmed as well. Wood-grilled and smoked foods contain elevated levels of heterocyclic amines (HCAs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). These compounds are mutagenic — they damage DNA as they are metabolized in the body.
There is evidence that regularly eating food prepared this way increases the risk of cancer. As the United States tells us, “PAHs are formed when fat and juices from meat grilled directly over an open fire drip onto the fire, causing flames. These flames contain PAHs that then adhere to the surface of the meat. PAHs can also be formed during other food preparation processes, such as smoking of meats.” (For more on PAHs, please see our page.)
Smoke, whether consumed as residue on food or inhaled as air pollution, is simply not healthy.